The Beauty Business



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The Beauty Business
Carolyn: I found these on American Memory I don’t know if they can be used.

http://scriptorium.lib.duke.edu/eaa/ephemera/A00/A0048/A0048-72dpi.html

http://scriptorium.lib.duke.edu/eaa/ponds/P00/P0021-72dpi.html

http://scriptorium.lib.duke.edu/eaa/ephemera/A06/A0645/A0645-72dpi.html

http://scriptorium.lib.duke.edu/eaa/ponds/P00/P0018-72dpi.html

The Beauty Business covers a wide range of products that includes cosmetics, perfume, skin cleaners, cosmeceuticals, etc. There is a wide range of prices points from the more mainstream products sold in mass merchandisers and drug stores to the more expensive brands in department stores and exclusive boutiques. This guide includes a brief history as well as a short write up of the current market as of the writing of this guide. It is not comprehensive or exhaustive. It is only meant as a starting point for research in this area.



History
Most people might think that cosmetics are a modern invention but in reality cosmetics have been used since ancient times. Often they were used in a religious ceremony - as seen in ancient Egypt - or as cultural identification. Egypt, because of its influence, had a direct impact on the practices and uses of cosmetics though the whole of the ancient world particularly ancient Rome and ancient Greece. For several centuries Rome provided a unifying cultural influence for much of the known world but as it’s influence waned and definitely after it fell, much of their civilization and practices withered away including a more wide acceptability of cosmetics. At the same time this unifying cultural influence began to die off there was a growing importance of other cultures, consequently the beauty aesthetic changed and the use of cosmetics was not as prominent.
Notably, the spread of Christianity with its denunciations of pride and vanity coupled with the a changing ideal of modesty also impacted the standards of beauty. While cosmetics did not totally fall out of favor, their use seems to have been greatly reduced and even marginalized. It developed that cosmetics were seen to be only used by courtesans, actresses, and assorted “loose” women, though they were used beyond that population especially among the wealthy. Eventually, high born women in the Renaissance used them to whiten their face into an ideal of pale perfection covering freckles and the sun touched skin of more common women. As seen in many of her portraits, Queen Elizabeth herself had a large impact on the acceptance of cosmetics.
As the concept of fashion grew and the hold of the Catholic church grew less, cosmetics moved just a little closer to more common or accepted usage. It wouldn’t be until the late 19th and early 20th centuries, despite the strictures of Victorian morality, that cosmetics and other beauty aids became really accepted and not seen as risque. The Roaring Twenties and glamourous movie stars of the 1930's finally brought cosmetics into the mass merchandise market and were sold in department stores and other venues to all women. It was about this time that some of the names - many of whom are still around - entered the picture and the modern cosmetics industry was born.

A Few Names of Note
One of the earliest names in cosmetics in the mass market is Max Factor. Max Factor the company (now part of Proctor & Gamble) was founded in 1909 by Max Factor. He is linked with Hollywood’s “golden years” and worked with some of Hollywood’s biggest leading ladies. He is credited with the invention or perfection of several commonly used cosmetics, many of which are still around today including lip gloss, waterproof make-up, motion picture make-up, etc. 1

The company Estée Lauder was founded in 1946 by husband and wife Joseph and Estée Lauder (born Josephine Esther Mentzer). Estee or Esty as she was called, showed an early interest in her chemist uncles’ business - selling products like cold cream, lip rouge, and fragrances. After high school she devoted her time to selling the skin care products that her uncle developed.2 After a few years she set up a counter in a newly opened salon to sell her products.3 By 1948 she had gotten her first order to sell cosmetics in Saks Fifth Avenue which led to increased exposure and eventually national recognition.4 Estée Lauder cosmetics were sold primarily at department stores and the company is still a major force is the cosmetics industry.


Charles Revson is known as a founder of Revlon. In his early career Revson was a nail enamel salesman for a New Jersey company. This experience proved to him that the nail enamel business had a future. In March of 1932 he along with his brother Joseph and a man named Charles Lachman started Revlon (the “s” in Revson was exchange with an “l” from Lachman). The company founded all those years ago is still producing products that people recognize.5
Another innovator was Helena Rubinstein. She arrived in New York in 1915 after establishing successful beauty salons in Paris, London and Melbourne. But it was in the United States where her name really became known. 6 One of her early innovations was the concept of classifying women’s skin into four groups - oily, dry, combination, and normal and creating products for each. 7 She had a well known and none too subtle rivalry with Elizabeth Arden who considered New York City her territory. While the company still operates it was purchased by L’Oréal in 1988.
Elizabeth Arden’s (born Florence Nightingale Graham) introduction to the beauty industry came in nursing school when she became interested in the work a biochemist she knew. He was working on a cream for skin blemishes and that prompted her to and see what she could crate.8 While that school endeavor didn’t work out, she moved to New York and got a job in a beauty salon. She eventually developed her own products under hew new name Elizabeth Arden. Her first store was opened in 1910 and was the beginning of a company as well as the signature look of the attention-grabbing red door. 9 During a trip to Paris during World War I, Elizabeth Arden discovered that French women were wearing skillfully applied mascara and eyeshadow. She bought samples and took them back to New York eventually incorporating color cosmetics to her product line. 10 The company weathered the Great Depression rather well and the company she founded continues to operate.

Mary Kay was founded by Mary Kay Ash in 1963 as Beauty by Mary Kay. She started with a small store front in but decided that women would rather purchase products in a relaxed home environment. Eventually the company became well known for its direct sales model and the signature pink. Another company much like Mary Kay is Avon founded by David McConnell as the California Perfume Company in 1886. Originally the company only sold perfumes with a staff of one full-time and a few part-time female sales agents who brought the products directly to the women’s home. 11 In 1928 the company introduced Avon, their line of cosmetics and toiletries and eventually the Avon name became so popular that in 1939 McConnell’s son and successor changed the company name to Avon. 12 Avon is still selling products in much the same way they always did.
Anyone familiar with the brands of cosmetics is familiar with Max Factor, Estée Lauder and the others mentioned above however, there are two names that should also be mentioned for their impact on the cosmetics industry - specifically with the African American market. First is Annie T. Malone who made a fortune manufacturing and selling skin and hair care products and founded Poro College for teaching African American cosmetology. Second, is Madam C. J. Walker (born Sarah Breedlove). Madam C. J. Walker founded the Madam C. J. Walker Manufacturing Company whose first product was Madam Walker's Wonderful Hair Grower. This company was run and catered to, the beauty needs of African American women. Both Malone and Walker utilized door-to-door sales quite effectively.

Footnotes

1. http://www.pg.com/company/who_we_are/max_factor_history.shtml

2. Kent, Jacqueline C. Business Builders in Cosmetics. Minneapolis : Oliver Press, pp 114-115

3. Ibid, pp 116-117

4. Ibid, p. 121

5. Ibid, pp. 97-98

6. Ibid, p. 41

7. Ibid, p. 45

8. Ibid, p. 61

9. Ibid, p. 63

10. Ibid, p. 66

11. Ibid, p. 30

12. Ibid, p. 33-34



Print

Allen, Margaret. Selling Dreams : Inside the Beauty Business. New York : Simon and Schuster, c1981.

LC Call Number: HD9970.5.C672 A44

LC Catalog Record: 81001038

This book traces the development of the cosmetics and beauty industry most specifically in the 20th century. Attention is paid to a few of the more well known companies like Elizabeth Arden, Max Factor, Helena Rubenstein, Estee Lauder, Mary Kay, etc. Other areas of discussion are the health/safety aspect as well as the nature of selling and the advertising of cosmetics.
Angeloglou, Maggie. A History of Make-up. New York] Macmillan [1970]

LC Call Number: GT2340 .A5 1970

LC Catalog Record: 74114232

An historical look at the development of make-up from Greece and Rome, and covering the Medieval, the Restoration, Regency, Victorian and Edwardian eras.


Ash, Mary Kay. Mary Kay. 1st ed. New York : Harper & Row, c1981.

LC Call Number: HD9970.5.C674 M372 1981

LC Catalog Record: 81047219

Autobiography of Mary Kay interspersed with the history of the business she founded and reflections on her business philosophy.


Bundles, A’Lelia Perry. On Her Own Ground : The Life and Times of Madam C.J. Walker. New York : Scribner, c2001.

LC Call Number: HD9970.5.C672 W3533 2001

LC Catalog Record: 00057372

TOC: http://catdir.loc.gov/catdir/enhancements/fy0631/00057372-t.html

Sample Text: http://catdir.loc.gov/catdir/enhancements/fy0705/00057372-s.html

Biography of Madam C. J. Walker (born Sarah Breedlove) told by one of her descendants. Includes and extensive Endnotes and Bibliography section.


Hobkirk, Lori. Madam C.J. Walker. Chanhassen, MN : Child’s World, c2001.

LC Call Number: HD9970.5.C672 W3544 2000

LC Catalog Record: 99047008

Book on the life of Madam C.J. Walker geared for juvenile reading.


Jones, Geoffrey. “Blonde and blue-eyed? Globalizing beauty, c.1945–c.1980.” Economic History Review. Volume 61 Issue 1 Page 125-154, February 2008.

This article examines the globalization of the beauty industry between 1945 and 1980. This industry grew quickly. Firms employed marketing and marketing strategies to diffuse products and brands internationally, despite business, economic, and cultural obstacles to globalization. The process was difficult and complex. The globalization of toiletries proceeded faster than cosmetics, skin care, and hair care.


Kent, Jacqueline C. Business Builders in Cosmetics. Minneapolis : Oliver Press, c2004.

LC Call Number: HD9970.5.C672 K46 2004

LC Catalog Record: 2002041033

TOC: http://catdir.loc.gov/catdir/toc/fy043/2002041033.html

Short biographical sketches of Helena Rubinstein, Elizabeth Arden, David McConnell, Max Factor, Charles Revson, Estee Lauder, and Anita Roddick.
Klepacki, Laura Ann. Avon : Building the World’s Premier Company for Women. Hoboken, N.J. : John Wiley & Sons, c2005.

LC Call Number: HD9970.5.C674 A953 2005

LC Catalog Record: 2005282353

Publisher Description: http://catdir.loc.gov/catdir/enhancements/fy0627/2005282353-d.html

This book is not only an extensive picture at how Avon grew from a small business selling books door-to-door to one of the world's leading direct sales cosmetics companies but also a look into how the way the company has continued to thrive.
Lowry, Beverly. Her Dream of Dreams : The Rise and Triumph of Madam C.J. Walker. 1st ed. New York : Alfred A. Knopf, 2003.

LC Call Number: HD9970.5.C672 W3558 2003

LC Catalog Record: 2002027494

Sample Text: http://catdir.loc.gov/catdir/samples/random041/2002027494.html

Publisher Description: http://www.loc.gov/catdir/description/random041/2002027494.html

Biography of Madam C.J. Walker as traced by where she lived

Peiss, Kathy. Hope in a Jar : The Making of America’s Beauty Culture. 1st ed. New York : Metropolitan Books, 1998.

LC Call Number: TT957 .P45 1998

LC Catalog Record: 97042706

A look at the history and a few of the entrepreneurial women like Madame C.J. Walker, Rubenstein, and Elizabeth Arden who were instrumental in the development of what is today a multi-billion dollar industry. This title also looks at the beauty culture in terms of women’s development as women as a consumer and professionals.

Weingarten, Rachel C. Hello Gorgeous! : Beauty Products in America, ’40s-’60s. American ed. Portland, Or. : Collectors Press, c2006.

LC Call Number: GT499 .W43 2006

LC Catalog Record: 2005032746

TOC: http://www.loc.gov/catdir/toc/ecip063/2005032746.html

Small book mostly showing print advertising from the 1940's to the 19670's for various beauty products.
Wilkerson, J.T. Story of Pride, Power and Uplift : Annie T. Malone. Kansas City, MO : Acorn Books, c2003.

LC Call Number: HD9970.5.C672 M358 2003

LC Catalog Record: 2002093845

Short biography of Annie T. Malone who was born in 1877 and founded Poro College in 1917 in St. Louis (later moved to Chicago). Poro trained African American women to work as sales agents for a black-owned line of beauty products.


Woodhead, Lindy. War Paint : Madame Helena Rubinstein and Miss Elizabeth Arden : Their Lives, Their Times, Their Rivalry. Hoboken, N.J. : John Wiley & Sons, c2003.

LC Call Number: HD9970.5.C672 R838 2003

LC Catalog Record: 2003062034

TOC: http://www.loc.gov/catdir/toc/wiley041/2003062034.html

The lives and rivalry of two of the early pioneers of the cosmetics industry. Helena Rubinstein was born in Poland, Florence Nightingale Graham (later Elizabeth Arden the name of her first shop) was born in Canada. Business contemporaries, both were self-made millionaires, and women in industry at a time when women had little power the business world.

Internet

About.com - History of Beauty

http://inventors.about.com/library/inventors/blbeauty.htm
History of 20th Century Fashion - Cosmetics

http://www.digitalhistory.uh.edu/do_history/fashion/Cosmetics/cosmetics.html

Includes a brief timeline.

Madam C.J. Walker

http://www.madamecjwalker.com/

Information on Madam C.J. Walker and includes a timeline of her life, information for students and teachers, etc.


About.com - inventors

http://inventors.about.com/library/inventors/blbeauty.htm

Includes information bits on the “inventors” or history of various specific beauty items from the bobby pin, lipstick, deodorants, etc.
National Park Service - Two American Entrepreneurs: Madam C.J. Walker and J.C. Penney

http://www.nps.gov/history/nr/twhp/wwwlps/lessons/walker/walker.htm

Information on Madam C.J. Walker for students and teachers.


Subjects

Cosmetics--History.

Cosmetics industry--United States--History

Beauty culture.

Arden, Elizabeth, 1878-1966.

Ash, Mary Kay.

Mary Kay Cosmetics.

Walker, C. J., Madam, 1867-1919.

Malone, Annie T., 1869-1957

Rubinstein, Helena, 1870-1965.



Current

Consumers are spending higher levels of their disposable income. “In the overall health and beauty care market, makeup margins tend to be the highest (as much as 38%), followed by skincare (as much as 35%). Haircare--satisfying the most basic beauty needs--lags at up to 33%.” (1) The markup margin for face makeup (foundation, blush, etc.) is 31%-36%, Lipstick/lip gloss is 29%-34%, and Eye makeup (liner, shadow, etc.) is 28%-33%. (2)


In the MMR/IRI H&BA Category Performance Study breaks down products by type. Generally speaking for all products, though there were exceptions, the higher the household income the higher the spending percentages. The top Cosmetics (eye) product in sales for 2006 is mascara by far at $439.7 million though eye line has the largest percentage change at 12% over the previous years sales. Hispanics are the biggest spenders, African Americans are the smallest. The top Cosmetics (facial) product is foundation just under $482 million in sales for 2006 with its nearest products being power at just over $168 million, and blush at $106 million. However, bronzers have seen the biggest growth with sales increasing 20.1% over the previous year. Asians spend the most while African Americans spent the least. The Cosmetics (lip) category includes glosses, liners, lipsticks, treatments, and combos. Lipstick far surpasses the other products in sales for 2006 with $375.5 million though lip treatments have seen the biggest growth in sales with an increase of 21.6% over the previous years sales. Once again Asians spend the most while African Americans spend the least. The Cosmetics (nail) area covers the polishes themselves as well as any of the equipment/implements. For 2006 polishes have the largest sales at $228.8 million but their growth was only 2.5% compared with the growth in nail treatments which saw a growth of 23.8%. In this category Hispanics led spending with Asians spent the least. (3)
Along with the growth in overall spending, is a growth in products and spending for the more prestige brands sold ant a much higher price point. According to a Forbes article in 2006 “premium-priced prestige skincare products (those $70 and up) generated $475 million in sales - up from $382 million in 2005" with products priced over $150 tripling over the previous year and reaching $59 million based on a report by the NPD Group. (4)
Some manufacturers like Aveda, The Body Shop, M A C have their own stores but most products are sold in drug stores or department stores. Drug stores sell typical consumer brands like Boots, Botanics, Loreal, MAX Factor, Cover Girl, Maybelline, etc. Sometimes stores sell their own or an exclusive brand like Target sells Soniaia Kashuk. For more “upscale” products, department stores sell from manufacturers like Clinique, Perscriptives, Lancôme, etc.
Retail / Wholesale
NAICS

http://www.census.gov/econ/census02/guide/INDRPT44.HTM

Cosmetics, Beauty Supplies, and Perfume Stores 446120

Clothing and Clothing Accessories Stores 44812, 44811 (with product code: 20160)

General Merchandise Stores 4521, 45211 (with product codes: 20160, 20165)

http://www.census.gov/epcd/susb/2001/us/US44612.HTM

http://www.intracen.org/tradstat/sitc3-3d/ip553.htm

Manufacturing
NAICS

Toilet Preparation Manufacturing 325620

http://www.census.gov/econ/census02/guide/INDRPT31.HTM

Print

“Anti-aging Products and Services." Encyclopedia of Emerging Industries. Detroit: Gale, 2007.

LC Call Number: HD2324 .E528

LC Catalog Record: 98660099

A six page overview covering SICs 2844, 2833, and 2834. Includes organization/structure, background and development, research and technology, current conditions and a short “further readings” bibliography.
BeautyBiz. New York : Fairchild Publications Inc., 2001-

LC Call Number: HD9970.5.T65 B43

LC Catalog Record: 2003206472

http://www.wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/

In every issue, WWDBeauty Biz includes the trends driving new products, personalities behind the business, retail analysis and competitive information, consumer research, business strategies and best practices, category specific analysis, and more. From top retail management and industry executives to editors, beauty advisors, stylists and Wall Street, WWDBeauty Biz reaches more of the people you need with a magazine that puts the industry into perspective.
“Clearing up Cosmetics Confusion.” FDA Consumer. May-June 1998

http://www.pueblo.gsa.gov/cic_text/health/cosmetic-confusion/398_cosm.html

Article discusses the FDA’s role in the regulation of cosmetics, as well as discussion over the drug v. cosmetics, prohibited ingredients, etc.
Cosmetics & Toiletries. Carol Stream, IL : Allured Pub. Corp., c2001-

LC Call Number: TP983 .A222

LC Call Number: TP983.A2

LC Catalog Record: 2006205377 and sv 85006448

http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/

Long running industry news publication under various titles beginning as Toilet Requisites (from 1916) with a name change to Beauty Fashion.


Cosmetics & Toiletries. The Guide. Carol Stream, IL : Allured Pub. Corp., 2006-

LC Call Number: TP983 .A2224

LC Catalog Record:

This is supplement of the publication Cosmetics & Toiletries. It is a guide to the ingredient suppliers by product category and region. Also includes a State of the Industry overview.


Davies, Briony. “State of the Industry: Eco-values ESCALATE.” Global Cosmetic Industry. New York: Jun 2007. Vol. 175, Iss. 6; p. 38

The latest research from Euromonitor International shows that, in 2006, the cosmetics and toiletries industry posed a growth rate of more than 5% over 2005, its overall highest since 2001. Russia was the largest cosmetics and toiletries market in Eastern Europe in 2006, with sales of $8.5 billion, representing approximately 42% of regional value. Brazil continued to drive growth in Latin America in 2006 with sales of $18.2 billion, an increase of 13% on the previous year. Although some of the hype about China, in general, is being transferred to India, Euromonitor International believes that China still holds the key to cosmetics and toiletries growth in Asia-Pacific, at least in the medium term. Fragrances stood out with particularly strong growth in 2006 compared to the other sectors. Euromonitor International forecasts average annual growth of 3% to reach global sales of more than $313 billion by 2011.


Evison, Jane. “Beauty and Glam.” Global Cosmetic Industry. New York: Nov 2006. Vol. 174, Iss. 11; pg. 27

Covered the “Future Beauty & Body Visions 2006" conference organized by Marketing Week magazine. It highlighted strategic thinking for brands within the skin care, fragrance, cosmetics, hair care and personal care markets. Companies should make sure that products are really new and different. Brand strengths should be communicated over time to slowly build up confidence in the brand. One panel discussed on the impact of the Internet's immediacy and how it can lead to increased knowledge of trends and consumers. Another area of growth is cosmeceuticals.


“Girl Power: Marketing to Today’s Women.” Euromonitor, 22 Oct 2007.

Specifically geared to marketing and selling to women, it covers all areas including the cosmetics industry in the Consumer Market Opportunities section. Includes various charts and graphs.


Global Cosmetic Industry. Duluth, MN : Advanstar Communications, c1999-

LC Call Number: HD9970.5.C67 .G57

LC Catalog Record: sn 99030130
Jeffries, Nancy. “Green Convergence.” Global Cosmetic Industry. New York: Jun 2007. Vol. 175, Iss. 6; p. 44

Momentum is growing in the areas of naturals and natural product sustainability, and global cosmetic and personal care markets benefit from increased interest and spending. The new naturals consumer, in addition to interest in organic foods and natural health care methods, is interested in appearance and personal care as a means of preventive health care. The natural personal care market, says Darrin Duber-Smith, president of Green Marketing Inc, is currently valued at $6.5 billion, and the category has been growing at 15% annually for the past 10 years.


MMR/IRI H&BA Category Performance Study. MMR, 24 (14): 30, September 10, 2007.

Covers the are of: Cosmetics (Eye), Cosmetics (Facial), Cosmetics (Lip), and Cosmetics (Nail) and includes (for all areas) sales/volume in sub categories; buying behavior for households as well a purchase amount/volume averages; demographics information like race, household income; and breakdown by supermarket v. drug store.


"Perfumes, Cosmetics, and Other Toilet Preparations." Encyclopedia of American Industries. Detroit: Gale, 2007.

LC Call Number: HC102 .E53 1994

LC Catalog Record: 2001223283

The SIC covered is 2844 (NAICS 325620, 325611) and contains information on organization/structure, background/development, further readings, etc.


Polas, Laura. “Manufacturers Go Direct to Retail.” Global Cosmetic Industry. New York: Sep 2005. Vol. 173, Iss. 9; pg. 24

The convergence of manufacturing and retailing is gaining momentum in the cosmetics and toiletries industry. Manufacturers who own retail stores have an advantage and more control over the use of point-of-sale and loyalty information and will continue to get more intimate with the consumer by providing products that they want at the desired point of sale. With slower market growth and increased product launches, cosmetic companies need to implement consumer intimacy strategies that create and keep loyal buyers and provide more than just eye shadow or wrinkle cream - today's consumer wants an evocative buying experience.


The Rauch Guide to the U.S. Cosmetics & Toiletries Industry. Manchester Center, VT : Impact Marketing Consultants, Inc.

LC Call Number: HD9970.5.C67 R38

LC Catalog Record: 2004209732

Industry structure and current market information, from raw materials, to product categories, to the directory of hundreds of leading marketers. Economics section provides data on industry shipments; long-term growth and forecasts; prices; company performance; employment, expenditures, and productivity; transportation and geographical patterns; packaging; foreign trade; and government regulations. Other sections included technology and raw materials, information on color cosmetics and fragrances (men and women), hair care products, skin care (sun, men, foot care, facial, etc.), advertising, directory, etc.


“SPECIAL REPORT: Lipstick, powder and paint.” In - Store. London: Aug 10, 2007. pg. 29

The colour cosmetics industry thrives on offering the latest "must have" products, but must also cope with high levels of competition from rivals and habitual behaviour by consumers. Counter displays must make an immediate impact on shoppers to encourage a purchase and the often limited space available can further complicate this task. Brands that have previously only been seen on high-street aisle displays are scaling up to counter displays and vice versa; cosmetics brands that have previously only been sold in boutiques and large department stores are adapting their "premium" look for high-street displays.


"Toiletries and Cosmetics." Encyclopedia of Global Industries. Online Edition. Detroit: Gale, 2007.

LC Call Number: HD2324 .E53

LC Catalog Record: 97661013

The SIC covered is 2844 (NAICS 325620) and contains information background and development, organization and structure, current conditions, and further readings.


Wynne, Michael. “The Future: Where What Isn't Will be Found.” Global Cosmetic Industry. New York: Feb 2007. Vol. 175, Iss. 2; p. 56

Article discing the need for cosmetics companies to constantly be on the lookout for new markets, products, services and concepts in order to stay on top in a highly competitive environment.



Internet

Beauty.com

http://www.beauty.com

This website is for shopping for cosmetics. It can also be used for market research for determining the players/competitors.


May 9, 2008American Academy of Dermatology

http://www.aad.org/public/Publications/PamphletsIntro.htm

This site includes a variety of pamphlets on various topics (acne, tanning, dermabrasion, etc.).
Beauty Biz

http://www.wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/

The beauty/cosmetics area of “Women’s Wear Daily.” Includes articles and information on the business and fashion end of the cosmetics industry.
Campaign for Safe Cosmetics

http://www.safecosmetics.org

Cosmetics companies whose products meet or exceed current EU formulation standards are encouraged to sign the Compact for Safe Cosmetics. ONLY cosmetics companies who manufacture their own line of products can sign the Compact.
Cosmetics Index

http://www.cosmeticindex.com/

Source for the Cosmetic Industry to find information about all components of the industry. Includes news, articles, information on industry events, and has a small business resource center. The Industry Resources area includes links to relevant government agencies, associations and miscellaneous while the Resources area give information/links to relevant publications. The Raw Materials & Fragrances area has listings of relevant companies. There is also a Research Reports section which is under development.
Cosmetics Industry

http://www.cosmeticindustry.com/

This website is for people to keep up to date on new products, promotions, competition and even what is being said about products. Includes relevant links to industry sources and the Marketing Help provides users to purchase relevant articles/reports on topics of interest.

CosmeticsInfo.org

http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/

Sponsored by the Personal Care Products Council (the Council) and its member companies. Resources include federal, state, international, and scientific links. Also includes information by product category (bath, hair care, nail, eye makeup, face makeup, etc.). Each includes a description of the products as well as ingredients and related information. The Safety area includes regulatory information/overview (U.S. and internationally), ingredient review, labeling issues, scientific information, etc.


CosmeticNews.com

http://www.cosmeticnews.com/index.htm

Web page for the publication Cosmetic News. Subscription is required for most of the data and it tends to focus on Europe and the international market.
The Cosmetic Site

http://www.thecosmeticsite.com/

Publisher for Cosmetics & Toiletries and Global Cosmetic Industry with links to both publications. Cosmetics & Toiletries has an archive of some of their issues and the China, Brazil, and Latin America editions of CT. Global Cosmetic Industry the Global Business area has market information, a state of the industry, general news, etc. There is an archive of some issues.
Datamonitor Industry Market Research.

http://www.datamonitor.com

Includes many reports on the facial care and fragrances industry. Here are a few examples: Facial Care - United States; Facial Care in China; Fragrances - United States; Anti-Aging & Beauty Attitudes And Behaviors; Global Make-Up market to 2011; Make-Up in Asia-pacific to 2011; etc. All report are for a fee or to subscribers to the database.
Food & Drug Administration - Center for Food Safety & Applied Nutrition

http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-toc.html

The two most important laws pertaining to cosmetics marketed in the United States are the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA). Withing the FDA’s Center for Food Safety & Applied Nutrition there is the Office of Cosmetics and Colors. Information can be found on laws, regulations, FDAs international activities, labeling, ingredients, enforcement, etc.
Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors Association

http://www.icmad.org/

Most of the information is for members or for a fee, but this is an international association geared to keeping its members apprised of regulatory and industry developments.
Information Resources

http://us.infores.com/

While the company tracks many areas, Leigh Anne Rowinski is the person involved in trend tracking in the beauty industry. She has spoken at NPD Groups Hot off the Press Beauty Industry Event.
NPD Group

http://www.npd.com/

Provides retail tracking service for the prestige beauty market and includes consumer behavior insights. Detailed retail tracking information is provided for the American, French, and Italian beauty markets. In the U.S., our custom capabilities allow us to work individually with clients to create proprietary solutions using our online consumer panel. Their data is not necessarily for sale like a market research product, however it can end up in articles (see: MMR/IRI H&BA Category Performance Study - above). Also, their press releases can also offer insight into specific topics. For example: Ethnicity and the Frequency of Beauty Product Usage, The Internet Is One Of The Fastest Growing Channels For Buying Beauty Products, Makeup Takes the Lead in the U.S. Prestige Beauty Industry, etc. Also, seems to sponsor the Hot off the Press Beauty Industry Event.
Packaged Facts.

http://www.packagedfacts.com/

Various reports. Various reports for Ethnic markets/products, some for certain age groups like tweens and teens, others on natural/organic products, etc. All reports are for a fee.
Personal Care Products Council

http://www.personalcarecouncil.org/

The Personal Care Products Council (formerly the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association) is the national trade association for the cosmetic and personal care products industry and represents more than 600 member companies. The International Legal and Regulatory database is available to members only. The have published the “Cosmetic Ingredient Review” (http://www.cir-safety.org/) since 1976 and have established the Cosmeticsinfo.org site for consumers to use to research ingredients and safety issues in the cosmetics industry.
The Science of Beauty: A Guide to Selected Resources

http://www.loc.gov/rr/scitech/SciRefGuides/beauty.html

This guide has print and electronic resources for those interested in the scientific end of make-up ando ther beauty products.
Skin Deep

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/index.php?nothanks=1

Developed by the Environmental Working Group, this database allows users to search by product, ingredient, or company for what is in makeup and whether the ingredients are harmful. Pair ingredients in 25,000 products against 50 definitive toxicity and regulatory databases.
Sephora

http://www.sephora.com

This website is for consumers to shop for cosmetics. It can also be used for market research for determining the players/competitors.
LC Subject Headings
Additional works on this subject in the Library of Congress may be identified by searching the Online Catalog under appropriate Library of Congress subject headings. Selecting a subject heading below will link you directly to the Catalog and automatically execute a search for the authorized subject selected. Please be aware that during periods of heavy use you may encounter delays in accessing the catalog. For assistance in locating other subject headings related to this topic, please consult a reference librarian.
Cosmetics.

Cosmetics industry.

Beauty, Personal.

Perfumes.

Lipstick.

Beauty culture.

Toilet preparations industry.

Footnotes

1. "Boomers Drive Rising Cosmeceutical Fortunes, Joined by Younger Shoppers." Research Alert, 4 February 2005.

2. "Boomers Drive Rising Cosmeceutical Fortunes, Joined by Younger Shoppers." Research Alert, 4 February 2005.

3. MMR/IRI H&BA Category Performance Study. MMR, 24 (14): 30, September 10, 2007.

4. Sherman, Lauren. “Ultra-Pricey Cosmetics” Forbes.com 4/25/2007. Accessed 1/23/2009 http://www.forbes.com/home/2007/04/24/cosmetics-expensive-money-forbeslife-cx_ls_0425cosmetics.html

Companies
This list is as it appears in 2008 but is subject to change in the future. For those companies that are public in the United States, the Investor area is the place to get the company information and can be used with care for industry information. SEC filings, annual reports, press releases, company histories, etc. can be just some of the information to be found.
Loreal

www.loreal.com/



The Body Shop

Lancôme


Biotherm

Helena Rubinstein

Kiehl's

Shu Uemura



Giorgio Armani

Ralph Lauren

Cacharel

Viktor & Rolf


Vichy

La Roche-Posay

Skinceuticals

Innéov


Sanoflore

Garnier


Maybelline New York

Softsheen-Carson

Club des Créateurs de Beauté

etc


.

Estee Lauder (EL Companies)

http://www.elcompanies.com



Aramis

Clinique


Perscriptives

Lab Series Skin Care for Men

Origins

M A C


La Mer

Bobbi Brown

Tommy Hilfiger

Kiton


Donna Karan

Aveda
Jo Malone

Bumble and bumble

Michael Kors

Darphin

American Beauty



good skintm

Flirt!


grassrootstm

Sean John Fragrances

MISSONI

Ojon


etc

.Boots

http://bootsus.bri-global.com



Boots

No 7


Botanics

Mediterranean

Sleep

Feel the Difference



Time Dimensions


Urban Decay

http://www.urbandecay.com

Urban Decay

Hard Candy


Moet-Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH)

http://www.lvmh.com/



Parfums Christian Dior

Guerlain


Parfums Givenchy

Kenzo Parfums

Benefit Cosmetics

Fresh


Make Up For Ever

Acqua di Parma

Perfumes Loewe



Proctor and Gamble

http://www.pg.com/en_US/index.jhtml



Cover Girl

MAX Factor

Old Spice

Giorgio Beverly Hills

BALDESSARINI

BOSS


bruno banani

Ghost


NAOMI CAMPBELL
Valentino

PUMA


LACOSTE

ESCADA


Noxzema

Olay


Camay

Ivory


etc

.NARS http://www.narscosmetics.com

Philosophy http://www.philosophy.com

Revlon http://www.revlon.com

Bliss http://www.blissworld.com

Origins http://www.origins.com/

L’Occitane http://www.loccitane.com/

etc. http://www.sephora.com/brands/complete_list.jhtml
Cosmeceuticals

Cosmeceuticals, loosely defined, are cosmetic products that have medicinal or drug-like benefits and are most commonly thought of in terms of in skin care products like anti-wrinkle and anti-aging products. They are the fastest growing area of the personal care industry. Sales for 2010, according to a Packaged Facts report, are projected at $16,454 million which is up from $13,089 million in 2005.(1) Skincare products have the largest share at 51.7%, followed by makeup, and haircare. Mass market retailers like supermarkets, chain drugstores and other mass merchandisers accounted for 61% of the sales with department stores, specialty stores, salons, etc. accounted for rest. For most marketers women 25 and older are their target market though there is a push to younger women. (2)


Cosmeceuticals are not subject to review by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and the term cosmeceutical is not recognized by the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. They are tested for safety though there is no testing done to prove claims made by manufacturers.

Print

Cosmeceuticals to 2010. Freedonia, October 2006.

This study analyzes the $5.4 billion US cosmeceutical industry. US cosmeceuticals demand will grow 8.5 percent annually, propelled by a stream of new products offering age-defying and other appearance-enhancing benefits. Skin care products will remain dominant while professional products will grow the fastest. This report costs $4,400 with sections starting at $30.

http://freedonia.ecnext.com/coms2/summary_0285-375494_ITM
Future Product Opportunities in Cosmeceuticals: Innovation in Food and Drinks with Beauty Benefits. Datamonitor, July 2007.

Assesses the drivers and major trends currently influencing the market and includes examples of winning strategies adapted from the personal care sector to promote cosmeceutical food and drinks. The report costs $1,910.

http://datamonitor-market-research.com/
Market Trends: The U.S. Cosmeceuticals and Anti-Aging Products Market. Packaged Facts, January 2005.

At $12.4 billion and posting strong progress, consumer skincare, haircare, and makeup products that beautify as they address health problems or concerns are a booming market. While the idea of “cosmeceuticals” began with a few anti-aging preps in the early 1990s, it has now expanded beyond those early products.

http://www.packagedfacts.com
"US Cosmeceutical Demand to Reach $7B in 2008." Nutraceuticals International, January 2005.

Internet

FDA


http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-218.html
The two most important laws pertaining to cosmetics marketed in the United States are the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA). Withing the FDA’s Center for Food Safety & Applied Nutrition there is the Office of Cosmetics and Colors. Information can be found on laws, regulations, FDAs international activities, labeling, ingredients, enforcement, etc.
eMedicine / WebMD

http://www.emedicine.com/derm/topic509.htm

Most of the information is related to dermatological issues and anti-aging issues. The References area provided a good bibliography with many of the links to Medline.

Footnotes

1. “Boomers Drive Cosmeceuticals Market.” Marketing to Women, 18 (12): 9, December 2005.

2. "Boomers Drive Rising Cosmeceutical Fortunes, Joined by Younger Shoppers." Research Alert, 4 February 2005.






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