Prepare two identical frames to form the sides of the kitchen. Lash a 3m (10ft) spar between the tops of two 3m (10ft) spars to form three sides of a square. A 4th 3m (10ft) spar is then lashed approx 1m (3ft) from the butt ends on the fourth side to form the support for the worktop.
Then prepare the door frame using 3 x 3m (10ft) spars by placing two spars parallel to each other and approx 1.5m (5ft) apart. Lay the 3rd spar symmetrically across the top ends and lash in place.
Join the frames by lashing a 3m (10ft) spar between the worktop supports at the back of the structure and lash further spar temporarily across the front, slightly above the work top level, to keep it square.
Lift the doorframe and locate the cross member on top of the sides of the kitchen
Lash 2 x 3m (10ft) spars from the outsides of the door frame to the back of kitchen. These form the basis of the worktop and must be level with and parallel to the outside supports.
Add side braces to the back and sides using 2 x 1.8m (6ft) and 1 x 3m (10ft) spar
3 x 3m (10ft) spars form the worktop across the back of the kitchen and should be lashed very close together.
1m (3ft) spars are lashed in place to form the work top round the other two sides. A space can be left for a washing up bowl.
Whilst some team members support the vertical sides, others can stand on the worktops and lash the doorframe cross member in place. Still standing on the worktop, lash the rear tie spar between the frames. The top will require bracing to keep it square and 2 x 3m (10ft) spars should be used. These should cross towards the back of the kitchen.
Whilst we made our kitchen worktops from short spars there are several alternatives which you could use – roll up tables or slats from the pallets which are found on many site wood piles these days.
Roll up tables have many uses in camp – two spars lashed between four large tent pegs with a roll-up tabletop provide a quick and easy surface to raise food or equipment above the ground.
We make our tabletops from sawn plaster lathes, which come in 6ft lengths and are 25mm x 6mm thick. They can be purchased from good timber merchants and are not expensive. They should be cut into 2ft lengths for the tables (do not try to make your roll-up tables any wider as the lathes will break if you put any weight on them).
You also need strong webbing or tape between ½” and ¾” wide and a heavy-duty stapler.
The tabletops are made by using two lengths of webbing at either end of the lathes.
Wind the end of the webbing around the end lathe and staple it very securely so that ends B and C come from underneath the lathe and A and D on top.
A B C D
ay the next lathe parallel to the first and about ½” from it – you will need to experiment with the spacing as it will depend on the thickness of the lathes and the type of webbing used – the table needs to roll. Ends B and C pass over the top of the second lathe and A and D go under it. Staple B and C to the lathe.
The third lathe is put in place and ends A and D taken over it and stapled, while B and C pass under it. Continue taking each end under and over the lathes and stapling them in place until the tabletop is the required length.
Very carefully (this may take more than one person) turn the table over to expose the unstapled side and staple it.
Staple an extra length of webbing to one of the end lathes so that when the table is rolled up it can be tied in place.
If you are unable to get suitable webbing, these tables can be made using strong waxed twine. This can be longer lasting but is more fiddly to make as it involves drilling 8 holes in each lathe and threading the twine through the holes alternately.