Week: 1 Topic: Intro & Basic Research



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Baylie Erickson

Fashion & Culture

Week: 1

Topic: Intro & Basic Research


Treatments and mood boards

Treatments = Collection of mood boards essentially

Exploring and conveying ideas before they are portrayed
Alexander McQueen

Mastering presentation

Spring/ Summer of 1999
Designer Perspective:

-Structurally very decided and sound

-Certain aesthetic

-Body contouring

-More bodily focused than facially

-Shapes and structures

-Choice of the skin that is shown is crucial in giving off a vibe that he wants

-Music choice affects vibe too


-Choices of a structured material mixing with a looser flowing material creating contrast

-Delicate while taking a look towards the future using props and shapes/contours

-Creatively excels in showing new ideas such as spraying a dress with paint at a live runway show using robots
Katy England- Creative Director
Fittings and Adjustments- Atelier (not counting outsourcing)

Music- DJ

Venue- producer (ties everything together)

Casting- Casting Director

Lighting- Lighting Design

Choreography

Hair -Guido Palau

Makeup


Manicurist

Line up- Creative Director

Attendees- Market Editors, “Celebrities”, Buyers (Sample → Back to showroom → Private showings for client base/ buyers → Production- needs to be 6 months ahead)

Seating Chart- PR, Marketing, Publicist

Photographers-

Set Design




1900-1919 Paris
Mainstream: the ideas, attitudes, or activities that are regarded as normal or conventional; the dominant trend in opinion, fashion, or the arts
Popular Culture: culture based on the tastes of ordinary people rather than an educated elite
Culture: the arts and other manifestations of human intellectual achievement regarded collectively
Subculture: a cultural group within a larger culture, often having beliefs or interests at variance with those of the larger culture.
Bohemian: adj. Having informal or unconventional social habits

Swan Bill Corset: make you stand in an ‘S’ curve, intention to adjust posture, accentuate posture


Belle Epoque: 1871-1914 (with WW1) First time in hundreds of years that people weren’t at war, more self control over your life, began free thinking

Socially beautiful era, but also sparked beautiful art

Artists:

-Buyers


-Promotion

-Supplies

-Intellectual Contemporaries
-Movement
Art Noveau-

-Nature elements

-warm colors

-Curves lines

-Very Detailed

-Seen in everything from jewelry to architecture


Ballet Russe

Serghei Diaghiler


Callot Soeurs

Paul Poiret

hobble skirt- hits at ankles

First woman to ride in a plane with Wright brothers- rope around skirt to keep the wind from blowing it up, was in newspaper


Ballet People- Bohemian, lived within bohemian culture

1001 nights, 1002 nights


Leon Bakst
Atget: everyday life photography
Theaters:

Folies Bergere

Moulin Rouge

Henri Toulouse Lautrec


May 2007 Vogue: Paul Poiret Inspired

Christian Lacroix


1920s Jazz Age

WW1: 1914-1918

-Women were finally allowed to drive and were needed for aid in the war

- 1918 Millions had died

-Good spirits, happy to be alive

-1920 women’s rights

-More women than men survive, women feel valued

-Men begin to want their lives and jobs back, women forced back in their homes, 3 steps forward 2 steps back

-Not much regulation on food and drugs, Temperance Movement

-Began Prohibition

-Wilson voted against, but gov. passed the law

-Moonshine & Bootleggers

-1920s; Jazz; new dances, radio, record players speakeasies

-Flappers: Flapping Vaginas, easy women, women feeling liberated, smoked cigarettes, wanted to do as many men as possible

-Moved away from Corsets into Bandeau Bras to fit a more androgynous shape

-Hemlines became very provocative and short and hosiery became popular


Josephine Baker:

-Performer, started at 15 and became very passionate

-Very involved in civil rights movement

-Dixie Steppers

-Was a silly, sometimes unfocused, but charismatic woman

- ‘Legs have no bones’

-As harlem renaissance was taking off so was Josephine

-All black review show in Paris at 19, sailed to Europe 1925

-Turned Paris on its head

-Considered exotic flowers, not prejudiced

-In France, no Jim Crow laws… Embraced all things African (Colonizing Africa at the time)

-French interest in African Art

-Appeared in only a pink feather boa and no clothes, felt beautiful

-Took off, people thought it was crazy

-Contrast to ballet, she disrupted the perfect white hierarchical body type

-Artistic Modernism Movement

-Impacted past just the theater → Picasso, Hemingway, etc.

-French Society women wanted the Josephine Baker look… hair, clothes, etc.


The Lost Generation

F. Scott Fitzgerald

Zelda Fitzgerald

Ernest Hemingway

Gertrude Stein

1808- Atlantic Slave Trade

1861-1865- Civil War

Jan 1 1863-Emancipation Proclamation

April 14 1865- Lincoln Assassination

1890-1965- Jim Crow Law Passes

1915-1970- The Great Migration

1920-1930s- Harlem Renaissance


Art Deco- decorative art, design, and architecture...modernist reaction...geometrical shapes
1930s
Summary Points:

Herbert Hoover

Money circulation so low

Depression/ market crash

1929-1932 income dropped 40%

1954 depression ends



Womens:

Draping and Bias cut became a big factor in fashion development.

Using gravity to an advantage rather than a disadvantage

Defined victorian era clothing found its way back

Women’s bodies defined

Women’s bodies also were used to sell clothes

Lettie Lynton dress

Film changed clothing and clothing became more graphic..

30’s are the basis and foundation for modern dress

Proportions were perfect



Mens:

Everyone wore suits

Duke of Wales tailor Frederick Sholty

Wanted to create a more comfortable suit

Inspiration from guards uniforms

London look, drape cut, drapery cut, English drape style

V shape with broad shoulders with a taper to a V

Big sleeves for a lot of movement

Became the modern coat and is still used today

Cut on the bias so there was “give”

Would fit even better over time from body heat

Went to Italy


1940s
December 8, 1941 War begins

Womens clothing becomes more androgynous

-big shoulders, less accentuated hips

Clothing designed to save money and fabric was rationed


August 15, 1945 WW2 ends and men need their jobs back

Order restored (men came back from the war)

Silhouettes changes back

Feminine shapes and women going back to their roles visually as well as Physically

(Dior)

1950’s
Beginning of Television



16 million men return to America

Women and men return to original priorities and jobs


Family dinners:

Etiquette

Gender Roles

Sexism


Expectation

Supression

Formality
Irving Penn-

1950’s photographer

Lisa Fonssagrives: one of the first famous models, famous for being married to Penn
Hour glass shape for women from corsets and girdles

“Fashion slim silhouette” : Marilyn Monroe, Lana Turner, Bettie Page

Underwire and separating breasts

Sex in any other way than reproduction was illegal

No education expectations- trade school (special trades) , don’t need college, usually end school after high school

No denim: too casual

James Dean era

Preppies


Grease

Bad boys and tight fitting clothes for girls

skinny jeans

Elvis
1960’s:

-Space Age // Modernists

-Swinging 60’s

-Drug Experiments

-Sexual Freedom

-Class Changes

Washington Square Park

Bob Dylan - Times are a changin

Vietnam War: Horrible attacks, drugs (LSD//Heroin) PTSD etc.

Taxi Driver

Beetles


Anti War songs

freedom like the 1920’s

School 50’s ettiquette hair had to be above ears

Anti manufacturer- thrift stores, growing food… hippies etc


Mini Skirts and more skin

youth fashion plays more of a role

buyer defined the trends

Shift dress// gogo boots


August 1969 15th-18th Woodstock

Black Panthers


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