The wine and jazz appreciation society news, vol 5, no 1, 1/2/99

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Region: Padthaway, South Australia and Goulburn Valley, Victoria.

At last a return to form! Opaque crimson colour. The nose is old fashioned with strong aromas of leather and earth embracing the superb ripe fruit which lies underneath. Ripe plum, liquorice and chocolate flavours are mouthfilling. Fine grained tannins, perfect balance and very long earthy mint plum chocolate aftertaste. Cellar 8-10 years.

$16.99 each or $198.00 per dozen


Region: McLaren Vale, South Australia.

A generous full bodied red. Superb opaque crimson mauve purple colour. The nose is very pronounced with liquorice allsorts, raspberry and spice aromas which are followed by a subtle earthy end note. Generous mouthfilling palate with distinct spice and black pepper flavours which are followed by liquorice, confectionary, ripe plum and raspberries. Excellent fruit and concentration of flavour. Fine grained soft tannins followed by a raspberry plum aftertaste. An excellent Rhone style. Cellar 5-8 years.

$13.99 each or $167.88 per dozen


Region: Clare Valley, South Australia.

The marketing department has been at it again, and yes, another new label for this traditional wine. Perhaps if someone would show the BRL Hardy marketing department the original Bin 61 label it would make a welcome return. This is an outstanding example of Bin 61. Voluptuous, opulent and abundant with ripe fruit flavours. Opaque crimson colour. Superb nose of ripe plum, liquorice and vanilla. The palate is packed with wonderful concentrated and mouthfilling flavours of liquorice, plum, blackberry and generous ripe fruit. Fine grained tannins, perfect balance and excellent persistence of flavour. Outstanding value for money. Cellar 8-10 years.

$13.99 each or $167.88 per dozen


Region: Barossa Valley, South Ausrtalia.

As sure as night follows day, vintage in or vintage out Clancys delivers a red with great consistency. Made from a blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Deep crimson mauve colour. The ripe fruit aromas leap out of the glass, ripe plums, mulberry spice and liquorice. The palate flavours are fruit driven, spice, ripe blackberry, plum and liquorice. Perfect balance, fine grained tannins, followed by plum, spice, liquorice aftertaste. Cellar 2-3 years.

$11.99 each or $143.88 per dozen



Region: South Eastern Australia.

The perfect summer red and a great companion wine to the 1999 Rosemount Estate Shiraz Cabernet. Medium body crimson mauve colour, just vibrant with youth. Lifted nose, freshly macerated crushed mixed berries with inky blackberry aromas dominant. The palate is simple, fresh mulberry and blackberry juice with a hint of stewed fruits in the background. Soft fine grained tannins with inky blackberry aftertaste. The perfect immediate drink. A totally fruit driven, fresh everyday drinking style.

$7.99 each or $95.88 per dozen


Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia.

Deep, almost opaque, crimson purple colour that clings to the glass and is a visual delight. The wild fruits of youth! The nose displays excellent ripe spiced liquorice, blackberry and plum fruit aromas - which begs to be consumed. On the palate the generous ripe blackberry and liquorice flavours bounce around with youthful exuberance. Good weight and depth. Fine grained soft tannin structure, very good balance, with long spiced blackberry and liquorice aftertaste which lingers on for some time. Drink now or allow 2-3 years. Great Value.

$7.99 each or $93.00 per dozen


Region: Kingston on Murray, South Australia.

An excellent everyday drinking Shiraz. Deep crimson mauve colour. Youthful nose displaying lifted spicy blackberry and cinnamon aromas followed by a hint of liquorice. On the palate spicy chocolate and plum flavours abound over an inky background. Good palate weight supported by underlying cinnamon and blackpepper back palate flavours followed by an inky blackberry, cocoa and chocolate aftertaste. Cellar 2-3 years.

$7.99 each or $95.88 per dozen



Region: Beechworth, Victoria.

An outstanding example of Chardonnay, displaying great complexity. Bright pale straw colour. The nose leads the palate into a superbly flavoured wine. Aromas of biscuit, almonds, spicy oak and yeast lees with a touch of butterscotch and toast. Beautifully integrated palate without any flavour component being dominant, yet not quite seamless. Flavours of melon grapefruit, nut, almonds, spice and oak are both concentrated and persistent. Perfect balance with very long grapefruit, melon, cashew and yeast less aftertaste. Clean acid finish. A great wine. Cellar 5-8 years.

$32.99 each or $384.00 per dozen


Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria.

Lindsay McCall is forging his way ahead of the rest of the Mornington Peninsula with a series of concentrated individual wines. Admittedly on occasions a better wine may emerge, but on a consistent basis his Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are outstanding. Even in the difficult years, such as 1996, McCall is able to create wines with power and complexity. So what's the secret? Well, in part it's the winemaking, however, the real essence to his success lays in the fact that he chose the right site to plant on in the first place. In cool climates, the selection of the warmest sites is critical to success. Brilliant straw colour. The nose is very Burgundian, outstanding in its lifted aromas of cashews, butterscotch and ripe melon which are superbly integrated with yeast lees and whilst the barrel fermentation aromas are present, they in no way overshadow the fruit qualities of this wine. The palate flavours are mouthfilling with melon and cashew being beautifully interwoven with a distinct aniseed quality over which are layers of toasted oak and tropical fruit. Perfect balance followed by very long aniseed, butterscotch and biscuit aftertaste. Cellar 3-5 years.

$29.99 each or $348.00 per dozen


Region: Piccadilly Valley, South Australia.

The fourth year of drought in the Piccadilly valley proved to be a hotter season than normal, thus moving forward vintage to the second week in April. This is a superb Chardonnay, but one that has a profound influence of the winemaker stamped on it. Bright pale straw colour. Magnificent nose filled with classic 'White Burgundy' aroma, but without the peaks that one normally finds in wine. Not altogether seamless, but certainly very apparent aromas of butterscotch, yeast lees, ripe peach, toasted oak and cashew. On the palate the secondary flavours are dominant, toasted oak, roast almonds and yeast lees are very persistent. Perfect balance with long cashew, almond and yeast lees aftertaste. Cellar 5-8 years.

$34.99 each or $414.00 per dozen


Region: Clare Valley, South Australia.

Arguably the best Petaluma Riesling in recent memory. The season was warm and very dry, another drought vintage, producing a small crop. The style shows a little more austerity than in past vintages, yet it has an incredible depth of flavour. Bright pale straw colour. Intense nose, very pronounced aromas of citrus, pear and floral spice. The palate is completely mouthfilling, yet constructed with an acid backbone that runs right through to the entire wine and adds a razor like precision to its construction which will ensure a very rewarding 8-10 years cellaring. The flavours are very concentrated and show great persistence, dominated by citrus, pear and lime with a touch of pineapple on the very finish. A great Clare Riesling.

$18.99 each or $227.88 per dozen

Petaluma Winery of the Month coming soon at:

Region: Margaret River, Western Australia.

A much drier Semillon than one normally expects to find from Margaret River. Bright straw colour. Grassy herbaceous nose with some capsicum overtones. The palate is quite dry and grassy with a hint of quince, tropical fruit and citrus. Good balance, although the acidity is on the high side, followed by quince, citrus and grass aftertaste. Cellar 2-3 years.

$19.99 each or $234.00 per dozen



Region: Marlborough, New Zealand.

Don't drink this wearing a loose fitting hat, it'll blow right off! This is as good as Gewurztraminer gets and is comparable to the great wines made by Alsatian genius, Zind Humbrecht. Bright, pale straw colour. Pungent nose, the perfect expression of the variety! Lychee, rose petals and spice abound, superb! The palate is totally mouthfilling, viscous, with a hint of Alsatian oiliness. A heavyweight of lychee and aniseed flavours with hints of lavenders and rose petal, a powerhouse! Perfect balance with a trace of coarseness on the back palate which is totally overwhelmed by the aftertaste. A first class result from Lawson's Dry Hills after having missed the beat in 1998. Cellar 3-5 years.

$17.99 each or $210.00 per dozen


Region: Marlborough, New Zealand.

An impressive Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand's world famous wine growing region Marlborough. A hot summer followed by a long dry Autumn has resulted in wines with excellent concentration. Pale watery colour. The nose displays intense aromas of gooseberry and tropical fruit which are carried through onto the palate over a grassy, herbaceous background. Clean crisp acidity with long tropical fruit, gooseberry and herbaceous aftertaste. Cellar 1-2 years.

$13.99 each or $162.00 per dozen


Region: Marlborough, New Zealand.

The 1999 Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs are much more impressive than the 1998's. Bright pale straw colour. Intense nose of ripe gooseberries and tropical fruit over a herbaceous background. On the palate there is good depth of flavour and varietal definition. Grassy unripe gooseberry flavours with good persistence, very precise acidity, maybe a touch high at this stage, but should be perfect for summer. Cellar 1-2 years.

$12.99 each or $150.00 per dozen



Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia.

This wine may take a few sips to get accustomed to. The style was developed as a part of the search for 'White Grange'. Bright pale straw colour. Very distinctive nose with strong aromas of grassy pencil shavings followed by herbaceous notes. The palate structure is quite dry and reflects some barrel maturation, but only in a minor way, as the pencil shavings and dry capsicum flavours overshadow any oak. Crisp, precise finish with strong herbaceous pencil shavings aftertaste. Cellar 2-3 years. Stocks are Limited.

$15.99 each or $189.00 per dozen


Region: Margaret River, Western Australia.

Made from a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc this is a delightful aromatic wine, perfect for the summer of 2000. Very pale almost watery colour. Delightful fresh, aromatic nose of freshly crushed tropical fruit and ripe gooseberries over a delicate herbaceous background. Mouthfilling palate flavours with ripe and unripe gooseberry, unripe passionfruit and tropical fruit. Clean crisp acid finish followed by a gooseberry and tropical fruit aftertaste. Cellar 1-2 years.

$14.99 each or $179.88 per dozen


Region: Pemberton, Western Australia.

The combination of elevated ironstone gravelly soils together with the cool and even temperatures during the ripening period in Pemberton result in wines of great concentration and complexity, despite the relatively young age of the wines. As a result Pemberton has become one of the hottest properties on the market - the wines from this region can only get better with sucessive vintages. The fruit for all of the Salitage wines is sourced exclusively from Estate grown grapes. This is an impressive follow up to the 1998 vintage. Bright straw colour. The nose displays aromas of tropical fruit, nut, peach and pineapple. The palate has good depth and persistence of flavour with citrus, grapefruit and tropical fruit flavours being dominant. Crisp acid finish followed by long citrus, grapefruit and nut aftertaste. Cellar 3-4 years.

$14.99 each or $179.88 per dozen


Region: Mansfield and Strathbogie Ranges,Victoria.

This wine is made from 70% Delatite fruit and 30% Riesling sourced from the Strathbogie ranges. Bright pale straw colour. Intense floral aromatic nose, fresh and filled with the aromas of pear, citrus and lime. This is 'Classic' Delatite Riesling. The palate is relatively austere, but remember it's a 1999 Vintage and has just been released. The citrus and lime flavours remain very distinct, followed by crisp acidity and long persistent citrus lime aftertaste. Cellar 3-5 years.

$12.99 each or $155.88 per dozen


Region: Clare Valley, South Australia.

The most impressive 1999 vintage Riesling tasted to date. Bright pale straw colour with green tinge. Lifted nose of lime, pear and rosepetal with delightful floral overtones. Mouthfilling flavours with citrus and lime flavour dominant and again distinct flavours of ripe pear. Excellent length and depth. Very persistent, clean crisp acidity and long citrus aftertaste. Cellar 3-5 years.

$11.99 each or $141.00 per dozen


Region: Goulburn Valley, Victoria.

A lightly wooded Marsanne with very pronounced varietal character. Matured in French and American oak, the wine has already been awarded 1 Gold, 1 Silver and 3 Bronze medals. Bright pale straw colour showing some early bottle developed character. Developed, honeysuckle nose, very pronounced and immediately recognisable as Marsanne. Generous full bodied palate with honeysuckle dominating over background flavours of vanilla, spice and melon with just a touch of citrus on the end of the palate. The oak treatment is subtle. Perfect balance with long citrus, vanilla aftertaste. Cellar 5-8 years.

$11.99 each or $141.00 per dozen


Region: Bendigo, Victoria.

Yet a another flavour filled wine from Peter Cumming, which judiciously uses a touch of American oak to create a flavour highlight, whilst allowing the fruit to move through the palate and aftertaste. Bright pale straw colour. Lifted nose, with aromas of citrus, grapefruit and melon in the background. Excellent palate flavour - generous ripe fruit - melon and peach are counter pointed by some refreshing citrus background flavour followed by a trace of cashew and butterscotch. Clean crisp acidity with very long cashew, melon aftertaste. Outstanding value. Cellar 3-5 years.

$11.99 each or $138.00 per dozen



Region: Eden Valley, South Australia.

This is the first Riesling tasted from the 1999 Vintage. Bright pale straw colour. Impressive nose with distinct floral lime aromas followed by a citrus background. On the palate there is good depth and considerable length. Mouthfilling lime, citrus and spice flavours are in plentiful supply. Crisp acid finish and long citrus aftertaste. Cellar 2-3 years. Great Value for money.

$9.99 each or $114.00 per dozen


Region: Wagga Wagga, New South Wales.

Bright straw colour. This wine offers remarkable value for money, displaying aromas of butterscotch, biscuit, peach and cinnamon. The palate displays good weight and plenty of ripe fruit flavours - generous ripe peach flavours are integrated with cinnamon, toast, spice and some nutty back palate flavours, followed by peach and spicy oak aftertaste. Cellar 2-3 years.

$8.99 each or $102.00 per dozen


Region: Swan Hill, Victoria.

This wine is exceptional everyday drinking, and a great improvement over the 1998 in that it is in the classic Rhine Riesling mould without the residual sugar of previous vintages. Bright pale straw colour. Lifted aromatic nose of citrus and lime, more reminiscent of Clare Valley than Swan Hill. Generous flavours of ripe pears and citrus with just a trace of aniseed. Excellent length and depth of flavour. Crisp acid finish followed by citrus pear aftertaste. Cellar 2-3 years. Outstanding value for money.

$7.99 each or $95.88 per dozen

Simon & Alex Chlebnikowski




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Hallidays reviews
Petaluma Chardonnay 1997

Rating: 88

Best drinking: 2002-2007

Price: $37.00

Drink with: Slow-roasted Tasmanian salmon

Background: One of the more elegant and refined Australian Chardonnays

which has, however, radically changed its geographic base since it was

first made in 1977, starting in Cowra then moving to Coonawarra, then

partly to the Clare Valley, and ultimately (since 1990) being made from

Piccadilly Valley grapes. The style of the wine has been refined over

the period, but has remained remarkably consistent given the quite

radically changing regional base.

Tasting note: Very light green-yellow; an extremely delicate, unevolved

and faintly minerally bouquet is followed by a delicate, crisp apple and

melon-accent palate which needs some years to open and build. As it

does, will doubtless rate higher points.

Browns Of Padthaway Myra Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1996

Rating: 90

Best drinking: 2000-2006

Price: $20

Drink with: Roast beef

Background: A quantum leap for the wines of this producer, offering the

concentration and flavour so conspicuously absent in the majority of its

other wines.

Tasting note: Medium red, with just a touch of purple; sweet, earthy

berry fruit is supported by some vanilla oak on the bouquet of medium

intensity. The palate has good concentration of sweet chocolatey berry

fruit, finishing with fine but persistent tannins.

Tempus Two Reserve Clare Riesling 1998

Rating: 88

Best drinking: 1999-2008

Price: $18

Drink with: Asparagus salad

Background: The precise origin of the wine is not stated, other than the

Clare Valley, which is probably sufficient in itself.

Tasting note: Light to medium green-yellow; the bouquet shows fine

toast, mineral and citrus-lime aromas; the palate lives up to the

bouquet with intense citrus-lime fruit and a long finish.

Yarra Yering Portsorts 1997

Rating: 90

Best drinking: 2000-2010

Price: $38

Drink with: As many friends as possible

Background: Only Bailey Carrodus could come up with a name such as this

for his Vintage Port, made from the classic Portuguese varieties planted

on a single, dedicated vineyard immediately abutting his original

plantings. When I first came to the Yarra Valley and planted Coldstream

Hills in 1985, Bailey suggested to me I should plant the port varieties.

I thought he was joking. Now I know he was not.

Tasting note: Medium to full purple-red; a fragrant, complex bouquet

with lifted spirit and spicy fruit is followed by a youthful palate with

pleasantly dry, spicy characters, the spirit fractionally intrusive.

Malcolm Creek Chardonnay 1996

Rating: 90

Best drinking: 1999-2003

Price: $16

Drink with: South Australian whiting

Background: Produced from 0.6 hectare of chardonnay planted in 1982,

with a further 0.2 hectare planted in 1996 and to come into bearing in

future years. A wine which ages with considerable grace; the '94 was the

currently available wine in 1997. The '96 and '97 vintages were

available in 1999.

Tasting note: Medium yellow-green; the bouquet shows good

bottle-developed aromas with complex tangy fruit and a touch of honey.

The palate has lovely flavours, with a mix of nectarine, citrus and

again a flick of that honey; considerable length.
In addition to the wines for which full tasting notes are provided, I inevitably taste a large number of additional wines which are either not of the same quality or of the same interest. For the sake of completeness, I list these (and publish the points) under the heading 'Also tasted'. Typically, these will be wines which receive 80 points or less, but there is no hard and fast rule about this. Lower-pointed wines that are inexpensive may well get reviewed; conversely, more expensive wines that just scrape past 80 points may not be reviewed.
Vintage Wine Rating

1999 Coolangatta Estate Semillon C

1998 Gidgee Estate Ensemble Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc 76

1999 Margan Family Winegrowers Verdelho 82

1998 Margan Family Winegrowers Merlot 83

1998 Milbrovale Hunter Valley Verdelho 80

1998 Milbrovale Hunter Valley Shiraz 79

1998 Miranda (King Valley) High Country Chardonnay 79

1996 Miranda Rovalley Estate Rovalley Ridge Shiraz 77

1997 Mouton Rothschild Mouton Cadet Blanc 80

1997 Mouton Rothschild Mouton Cadet Rouge 78

1999 Nepenthe Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 80

1999 Queen Adelaide Woodley Wines Riesling 78

1999 Queen Adelaide Woodley Wines Sauvignon Blanc 77

1998 Reedy Creek Vineyard Chardonnay 76

1998 Reedy Creek Vineyard Old Vine Shiraz 80

1998 Reedy Creek Vineyard Shiraz Mourvedre 79

1997 Spencer Hill Estate Tasman Bay Nelson Oak Aged Sauvignon Blanc 79

1997 Trio Station Reserve Cabernet Merlot 75

1997 Trio Station Cabernet Sauvignon 78

1998 Turramurra Estate Sauvignon Blanc 80

1998 Vasse Felix Heytwsbury Chardonnay 83

1998 Vinden Estate Semillon 78

1998 Vinden Estate Chardonnay 79

1999 Westend Richland Sauvignon Blanc 78

1998 Wildwood Wild Margaret River Classic 82

James Halliday's latest tasting notes...
Value special

Cranswick Estate Cocoparra Vineyard Shiraz 1997 Rating: 90 Best drinking: 1999–2003 Price: $18 Drink with: Beef Wellington

Background As the name suggests, from the Cranswick Estate Cocoparra Vineyard and, in the quirky but far from uncommon nature of such things, was the first crop. The wine spent 12 months in American oak, oak which is barely noticeable. Winner of two trophies at the 1998 Griffith Wine Show, and a number of bronze medals at other shows including capital city wine shows.

Tasting note Medium to full purple-red; a rich and concentrated bouquet with dark cherry varietal fruit is followed by a palate with plenty of concentration and power, with the fruit once again doing the talking. The only faint criticism is that it dips slightly towards the finish.

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